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TrikeTrash



Joined: 27 Mar 2008
Posts: 1
Location: Kingston, Tennessee

PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #41   
Brian you're thinking of the "Woodoo" and the youtube link is:

youtube.com/watch?v=GQryVLEDflo

The current youtube poster is not the original guy - he pulled all his stuff
along with his website years ago. No idea why.

The original guy had several variations of the design, the first? had
a Honda 125 air cooled motorcycle engine for power and a motorcycle
sprocket set for the redrive. Later on he switched to a water cooled
engine (no info on it).

Personally I think this would make an excellent "HG Set". Keep the UL
frame, remove the engine, add a tail cone to clean up the aerodynamics.
Add a tug release to the frame between the pilots feet.

Two, leave the self lauch UL as is but beef up the downtubes and clean up
the aerodynamics.

For tug use, a tandem wing and and a larger (Rotax 447) engine. It could be
built 100% UL legal and just about any H3 could fly it.


Mark



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brian scharp
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #42   
Yeah, that's it. Thanks Mark.

Link
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #43   
[quote Personally I think this would make an excellent "HG Set". Keep the UL
frame, remove the engine, add a tail cone to clean up the aerodynamics.
Add a tug release to the frame between the pilots feet.

Two, leave the self lauch UL as is but beef up the downtubes and clean up
the aerodynamics.
Mark[/quote]

Really nice! The weight of the engine in the rear probably moved his body position forward...he is doing all his flying off his DT's.
My experience with hang glider rigged for prone is I am looking straight up past the rear edge of my sail....way back...hence the flybar handles to keep it comfy laid back...and the flybar portion across the front to pull in for speed more easily and keep it strong.
Now...add some pedals out in front and a human powered winch reel...lay out some line.....wait for about a ten mph breeze, and pedal ourselves up into the sky and release by "overflying" the ground anchor that allows a slip ring at the end of the towline to "slip off" when we over fly....then keep peddling and reel the line back in to the winch........hmmm...with a 10 mph breeze that would actually be doable...talk about "self soaring"...we could peddle ourselves up into the sky with a rig like that...no gas required...I am liking it!
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #44   
major problem with my idea....with the line on a reel that is actually ON the hang glider I don't see how I could release the line in an emergency without dropping the whole fricken reel....oh well...doesn't hurt to dream...
I really like the strength of his front wheel set up triangulated between the Dt's and the base tube...going have to build me some of those....
here is a pic of some skids I built last week from the back end of an old kayak, split down the middle and re-molded to suit my purpose.....but I think I like the wheels posted above better.
only advantage my skids would have is I can carry about three beers and half a pizza in each skid. Smile



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freeflight
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Joined: 23 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #45   
TrikeTrash wrote:
Brian you're thinking of the "Woodoo" and the youtube link is:

youtube.com/watch?v=GQryVLEDflo

The current youtube poster is not the original guy - he pulled all his stuff
along with his website years ago. No idea why.

The original guy had several variations of the design, the first? had
a Honda 125 air cooled motorcycle engine for power and a motorcycle
sprocket set for the redrive. Later on he switched to a water cooled
engine (no info on it).

Personally I think this would make an excellent "HG Set". Keep the UL
frame, remove the engine, add a tail cone to clean up the aerodynamics.

Add a tug release to the frame between the pilots feet.

Two, leave the self lauch UL as is but beef up the downtubes and clean up
the aerodynamics.

For tug use, a tandem wing and and a larger (Rotax 447) engine. It could be
built 100% UL legal and just about any H3 could fly it.


Mark

What about adding a hammock like the Millennium instead of a seat? Then the pilot could lay out flat and reduce drag even more.
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #46   
Suprone FlyBar update, march, 2017.....waiting for flyable conditions to test. should be smoking fast and also increase roll rate....sj
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKkSKDTgqoQ&feature=youtu.be
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brian scharp
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #47   
When you pulled in your entire body was in front of the control frame. I'm betting that'll be adequate. What happens in the case of a nose over crash? Is there room for your legs under the Suprone FlyBar when the nose of the glider and the wheels are on the ground?
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Nicos
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Joined: 21 May 2009
Posts: 2053
Location: Canberra, Oz

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #48   
Thanks Jim!

Now I need to get me a bar and clamps for the DTs — any ideas for getting the clamps fabricated (Airborne Sting3)? Bit nervous about the clamps compromising the DTs...
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #49   
I made my own clamps with uhmw black plastic and a wood router but it was tricky. Obviously no bolts or screws should make contact with the DT's. My two bolts run on either side of the DT's and clamp the transverse portion of the flybar down to the DT's very snug. no wiggle room.
Wills knows about my bar as does every other major manufacture but no one has expressed any interest in putting these bars into production which would a pretty simple process for them since I have already done most the R&D. I think we need to send PM's saying....HEY! we wanna fly this way!...to let them get a realistic idea of the market available.
If nothing else, I will do a quick starter this spring and put the bar into production myself if the quick starter successfully raises enough funds to do so....If the quick starter fails I will probably let the provisional patent lapse (filed oct. 5, 2016)....NOT file a provisional, and put a "how to build one yourself video online".....a possible source of "clamps" that are already made to fit aerofoil tubing without damaging them are cargo carrier clamps made by Thule, Yakima, etc.....BTW.....even though I do have a patent pending, please do not let that stop anyone from building their own if they have the skills to do so....the more of us that are out there flying this way...the more interest will be generated....the more interest that is generated, Showing a market for this way of flying,....the more likely a major manufacture will step up to the plate....
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Nicos
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Joined: 21 May 2009
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Location: Canberra, Oz

PostPosted: Thu Mar 16, 2017 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #50   
Excellent info, thanks!
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #51   
finally had a clear, non rainy day here yesterday in the great Northwest....took off from Dog mtn in light wind....caught a good thermal on the south side to about a grand over launch....roll control was exceptional now that I have lowered my center of mass by 4 inches....I also tested the top speed available with my new design and easily broke 50 mph on my old super sport!!!! Houston, we now have SPEED IN SUPRONE!!! Also kept my feet in the fully suprone position for landing and it was a piece of cake. A total non-event.....even though I had not secured my wheels from shifting side to side and my right wheel drifted right on the basetube, caught up against the DT and threw me into a sleight spin to the right during landing the landing was gentle and safe.....The "airbag" built into the PG harness totally kept my bottom from contacting terra firma....felt like sitting down on a feather bed..
This was my FIRST real thermal flight in Suprone. And even though I kinda felt like a newbie thermal pilot in this position I had no problem staying with the core. During and After this flight I took notice that I had no sore shoulders, no sore neck, roll control was effortless, I could pull in for as much speed as I desired....No rotation is required for landing....I think we really have something here. The only potential "problem" I encountered was the "air scoop" on the front of the "airbag" did slightly "catch" on the basetube as I let out the bar after pulling in for speed. Wasn't a problem really, but it provided a slight "jerk" as I let the bar out....so....cleaner harness would eliminate that...no air bag...I am going to track down one of those fancy "pods" the PG's are flying with...probably with foam under the arse instead of an airbag.....One other problem that will be solved by more experience is I did misjudge altitude for my approach....being all laid back while doing an approach is a new perspective. So used to rotating to the uprights...so it threw off my judgement a bit and my vario was too far away so the fact I was in rapidly sinking air did not "register" right away with me....I pulled it off but made my final turn pretty damn low....I need to remind myself that I am not a hang 4 with 45 years experience in this flying position.....I am a newbie....
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dbotos
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Joined: 08 Oct 2016
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Location: southwest VA

PostPosted: Fri Mar 17, 2017 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #52   
Jim,

Good stuff - looking forward to more video!

Can you give some more details on your wheels? I like the notion of something with a decent diameter but not super-balloony on the width.

David
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #53   
dbotos wrote:
Jim,

Good stuff - looking forward to more video!

Can you give some more details on your wheels? I like the notion of something with a decent diameter but not super-balloony on the width.

David


I ordered mine from Northern Tool. Here is the link....then popped out the steel bushings and the inside diameter is 1 1/8 inches....almost perfect, but weak hubs, so I filled the "honeycombed" areas of the hubs with HOT GLUE....makes them pretty tough..and not too expensive....
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_13794_13794
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sunnyjim
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Joined: 09 Feb 2012
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Location: omak

PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #54   
Two breakthroughs in Suprone Flight in one Day! Increased roll control as well as increased speed. hit 50 mph plus in the suprone position...

Link
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TjW
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Joined: 07 Aug 2012
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Location: Mira Loma

PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2017 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #55   
sunnyjim wrote:
dbotos wrote:
Jim,

Good stuff - looking forward to more video!

Can you give some more details on your wheels? I like the notion of something with a decent diameter but not super-balloony on the width.

David


I ordered mine from Northern Tool. Here is the link....then popped out the steel bushings and the inside diameter is 1 1/8 inches....almost perfect, but weak hubs, so I filled the "honeycombed" areas of the hubs with HOT GLUE....makes them pretty tough..and not too expensive....
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_13794_13794


Great minds think alike. I did this a few weeks ago for wheels for a Condor, and they work fine.
On the ones I got, I had to drill through the center of the hub. Each side has a starter hole of 1 1/8 inches where the bearings go, but the center portion necks down considerably. I used a Forstner bit, and it took out the middle in one continuous curl. A hole saw would probably work as well. I chose the Forstner because it was about fifty cents cheaper than the hole saw at the hardware store. Don't ask me why.
I just used a hand held drill, and drilled in from both sides to keep the runout to a minimum.
Some rolled-up sandpaper added some clearance so they'd slide on and off and rotate easier. I also added a little silicone dry lube.
I didn't fill the hub with anything.
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dbotos
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Joined: 08 Oct 2016
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Location: southwest VA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #56   
Jim,

Thanks. Looks like it might be possible to bore the ribbed section out and make a bushing that brings it down whatever size ID is needed. I have made some bushings out of recycled HDPE that have turned out well for other projects.

Suprone looks nice and relaxing. May have to try sometime. How's a typical PG harness compare pricewise to a typical HG harness?

David
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brian scharp
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #57   
http://archive.sonomawings.com/gear/wheels/wheels.htm
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toestub



Joined: 02 Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Location: Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 3:38 pm    Post subject: Supine Reply with quote #58   
Anyone know how Bob Thompson was set up? Flew over the Grand Canyon and back supine, as well as multiple Arizona XC records. I tried to find a picture I remember seeing of him at Sheba Crater but couldn't find it.
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Nicos
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Joined: 21 May 2009
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Location: Canberra, Oz

PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote #59   
Great stuff, it now looks good for control authority on both axis', rotating the basebar seemed to do the trick (this was my main concern), sweet! I assume I can get a PG harness that allows a bit more body to go through the frame on launch (ie forward rotation for windy days)?

Really appreciate your efforts Jim, are you able to ping me some dimensions?
bar dia, overall width at DT contact, how far forward/back it goes from DT, distance of join (centre) from top and bottom of your DTs...

Time to start building thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup
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dbotos
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Joined: 08 Oct 2016
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Location: southwest VA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote #60   
brian scharp wrote:
http://archive.sonomawings.com/gear/wheels/wheels.htm


Nice. So is the wheel rotating directly on the base tube? I always imagined some kind of sleeve that sat in between the base tube and wheel for the wheel to rotate on. With it directly on the base tube, I guess the plastic of the wheel would wear long before any damage to the base tube.

For people with wheels on their gliders, do you do some kind of periodic (e.g. yearly) wheels-off inspection to check the condition of the the base tube, wheel bores, etc.?
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